If you order kumpir in Turkey, the standard filling is first, lots of butter mashed into the potato, followed by cheese. There’s then a row of other toppings that you can just point at to your heart’s content – sweetcorn, olives, salami, coleslaw, Russian salad, allsorts – and you walk away with an over-stuffed potato because you got ever-excited by the choices on offer. Grate (roughly – you can use as much as you like) 150g of cheese. Finely chop one onion and one sweet red pepper. Put these ingredients into a large bowl with a good sprinkling of salt and pepper, chilli flakes (optional).